A sample. A trio of chocolates to taste.
These are bespoke chocolates made by Gosnells chocolatier Katya Oost. She supplies her Aristokat Artisan Chocolate Couture Collection to two stores in Perth, one of which is The Good Store in Victoria Park.
High quality ingredients are utilised in order to perfect each of these little treats. The chocolate chosen is Callebaut from Belgium, and the fillings are made using Danish Lurpak butter. These give the chocolates an overall smooth, caramel, and creamy taste – rewarding from start to finish.
I choose three ($3.00 each) from the 19-chocolate couture range.
Lychee Flower – the floral fruit of asia is encased in this delicate shell
Hardened outer white chocolate casing, just hard enough to break under the slightest of pressure. The pink flower is buttery, sweet, and creamy. Slightly fragrant.
County Fair – childhood beckons with this rich toffee apple ganache
A gold leaf coloured milk chocolate outer shell with an inner white chocolate infused toffee apple ganache. Not so sweet at all, which was unexpected. A lovely overall package.
Theia – mahlab (dried cherry stone), star anise & honey infused ganache
A dark chocolate dried cherry flavoured casing with a smooth ganache that had a hint of star anise and honey. Balanced and not so bitter, well rounded ending on the palate. My favourite.
Each of the Aristokat chocolates have their own individual identity or character. Although each chocolate has a unique flavour, the tastes are quite subtle and not so overpowering. All elements are balanced with each chocolate. In store you can choose individual chocolates at $3.00 a pop, or a gift box of 9 (your selection) for $27.00. New deliveries of chocolates to the store occur every few weeks.
The Good Store
Address: Shop 4, 363-367 Albany Highway
Victoria Park
Tel: +61 8 9361 8271
Web: www.thegoodstore.com.au
Opening Hours:
Friday – Wednesday (10:00am – 5:30pm)
Thursday (10:00am – 9:00pm)
WA Today has started promoting a competition with Eating WA to celebrate the recent launch of their ‘Your Perth’ newsletter. ‘Your Perth’ is a guide to the who, what, when, where, and why of Perth’s social and lifestyle scene. By registering as a Fairfax Digital member and subscribing to ‘Your Perth’ and Eating WA, you will be in the running to win one of the following prizes:
First Prize Dinner for two to the value of $150 every fortnight for a year, restaurants include Yu, Atrium, Cream, Origins, The Pines…
Second Prize A case of wine per month for a year from some of WA’s favourite wineries including Mad Fish, West Cape Howe Wines, Salitage and Palandri
Third Prize 1,000 winners will receive a WA VIP Card valued at $50, guaranteed to give you great savings when dining around town
Winners will be drawn on October 13th and be notified by email. You must be 16 years or above in age to enter.
Perth’s Good Food & Wine Show weekends have largely been seen as occasions to get pissed on the endless supply of wine, beer, and spirit tastings. This year’s was very much the same affair – large crowds gathered around the wine section of the Perth Convention Exhibition Centre. Getting pissed is simply a part of the West Aussie culture.
The foodie section comprised the same stalls as last year, with only a very few new additions such as Cheesebuddy Food Supply, Mini Melts Ice Cream, Sence Rose Nectar, and Kikkoman Australia. Throughout the day we did our rounds, however got bored rather quickly. It was the same show, mostly the same products, and same celebrity chef lineup (except for the addition of Manu Feildel). Just a different year. The highlight of the Good Food & Wine Show was Matt Moran’s Favourite Things.
Matt Moran’s Favourite Things show proved to be entertaining with the chef butchering a lamb carcass on stage. Most of the poor lamb was given away to members of the audience. The lady in front of us even won an unwrapped lamb leg, three times the size of her handbag. Matt prepared three dishes – an entree of Roasted Scallops with Shaved Serrano Ham, Chestnut Puree, and Brussel Sprout Leaves, Roasted Lamb Joints as the main, and for dessert, a Lemon Mousse with Fresh Raspberries & Sesame, and Poppy Seed Tuile. All were simple recipes suitable for the cold winter weather. The recipes can be found here.
Matt Moran’s Favourite Things
Matt Moran with Manu Feildel’s lamb
At lunch time, we dined at the Fifth Leg Restaurant. We purchased a main and dessert each. We shared them, savouring each celebrity chef’s special dishes. Of particular note were Gary Mehigan’s Bastilla of lamb, olives and pine nuts, and Manu Feildel’s Coq au vin. Although small, they were favourites among our group. All mains were $24.00, and desserts $8.00.
Fifth Leg Restaurant Menu
George Calombaris
Braised chicken and celery fricasse
Chocolate and walnut tart, salty caramel sauce
Tobie Puttock
Polenta Gnocchi with marjoram, tallegio and prosciutto
Baked pears with vin santo and cinnamon
Gary Mehigan
Bastilla of lamb, olives and pine nuts
Panna cotta with Rhubarb
Manu Feildel
Coq au vin
Vanilla creme brulee
The Cheese Matters Masterclass was similar to last year’s and proved to be very popular. After my write up on Good Food, Wine & Blue Cheese, I checked Ticketek and all classes were “sold out”. Damn, I needed two more tickets for the latecomers in our group!
The products we ate in the Cheese Matters Masterclass
Our table
Naomi Crisante again held the reigns and took us through a 45 minute session of cheese and wine tasting. In order, we were taken through the following.
Fresh-Style Cheese
South Cape Persian Fetta and olive bread
and
Croser Vintage Sparkling
Soft White Cheese
Tasmanian Heritage Traditional Camembert
Tasmanian Heritage Signature Brie with fresh grapes and South Cape Crispbreads
and
Croser Vintage Sparkling
Swiss-style Cheese
Tasmanian Heritage St Claire Swiss-style cheese with cornichons and cashews
and
St Hallett Faith Shiraz
Cheddar Cheese
King Island Dairy Surprise Bay Cheddar with South Cape Quince Paste and green apple
and
St Hallett Faith Shiraz
Parmesan Cheese
Mil Lel Extra Aged Parmesan with fresh corella pear
and
St Hallett Faith Shiraz
Washed Rind Cheese
Tasmanian Heritage Red Square with Pomona Glace Apricots
and
Preece Victoria Moscato
Blue Brie Cheese
King Island Dairy Lighthouse Blue Brie with Pomona Muscatel Clusters
and
Preece Victoria Moscato
Blue Cheese
King Island Dairy Roaring Forties Blue with Truffle Honey from The Wine & Truffle Company
The Mil Lel Extra Aged Parmesan, Tasmanian Heritage Red Square, and King Island Dairy Surprise Bay Cheddar were all given a unanimous thumbs up at our table. Bloody fantastic. Our only gripe with the masterclass was its 45 minute length – too short and too rushed. At 4.45pm everyone was asked to leave. We gobbled up our cheeses pretty quickly, and downed the wine glasses bare. One of our friends loved the moscato so much he polished the bottle off by drinking straight from the bottle. On our way out, we received a show bag with a Cheese Matters recipe book, which we later got signed by Naomi Crisante. On mine it said: “Dear Devan, Say Cheese… Naomi Crisante“. All in all, the class was way too rushed and as a suggestion for future classes, an hour minimum would have been nice.
In conclusion, the 2010 Perth Good Food & Wine Show was no different to last year’s show. The Melbourne and Sydney shows are so much better as they offer more variety of products, and show more depth. That is, not all products are the standard affair breads, dips, and sauces. Oh, would it have been nice to have a larger showcase of Western Australia’s produce, cakes, artisan breads, desserts, and seafood. Sydney’s show is up next and they have the Chocolate Masterclass, Cocktail Flair Challenge, Coffee Experience, Coffee & Cupcake Classes, in addition to the Cheese Masterclass, Decanter Bar, and Gourmet Garden Cooking School. Will we get them in Perth next year perhaps? On the up side we all had a good time – an excuse to catch up with friends, bond through eating, and errr yeah, laugh ourselves silly on the wine.
Good Food & Wine Show
Dates: Friday 2 – Sunday 4 July 2010
Address: Perth Convention Exhibition Centre
Web: www.goodfoodshow.com.au
Celebrity Chefs: Manu Feildel, Matt Moran, Tobie Puttock & Matt Skinner, Gary Mehigan & George Calombaris
It’s nearly that time of the year where we say hello to another Good Food & Wine Show. Little over a month to go now. The cheese masterclass tickets are booked, and the Matt Moran celebrity session chosen. We have 31 days to mould our possum bellies into iron guts. Because – there will be a lot of food to devour, and wine to get smashed on. 2010 will be my third visit to the show.
In 2008, a wet dream was made a reality. I met my then favourite chef, Gordon Ramsay at the Sydney Convention Centre, before he went all feral on Tracey Grimshaw a year later. He demonstrated how to prepare a Butter Bean soup with Chorizo and Thyme – a simple, hearty dish that really satisfies, especially during the cold season. I’ve tweaked his recipe, adding cherry tomatoes and sliced bacon, and oh it’s so good to have with a massive slice of sourdough bread. The Sydney Good Food & Wine Show was brilliant. One highlight was the Lindt Chocolate Tasting. Not to be confused with the Lindt Chocolate Masterclass, the 10-15 minute session was held in a dimly lit tent. All participants were required to wear blindfolds, and sit down in allocated spots at a bar table. The host would give out different pieces of chocolate throughout the session, and it was up to us to describe the taste, and mouth feel of each. About 6 pieces of chocolate were tasted, beginning with an Excellence Madagascar 66% Cacao, and ending with the Excellence 99% Cacao.
In 2009, my posse and I saw Gary Mehigan and George Calombaris at the Perth Good Food & Wine Show. Funny blokes with a fab sense of humour. They were great as a comedy duo. However, we were a little disappointed with the “lightness” of the demonstration – little cooking, and lots of talk. The only recipe I could remember was their lovely lavender donut recipe. Kids in the audience went ballistic on their sugar coated balls. After the show, we lunched at the Show restaurant. Situated in one corner of the venue, the celebrity chef kitchens each prepared an entree, main, and dessert. We purchased two to three dishes at each kitchen with dining currency (obtained at the restaurant entrance). We then shared, tasted, and critiqued. It was the best way to experience a large selection of the foods.
The food and wine stalls offered free tastings all day. Last year, our breakfast comprised a glass of rum, a Nando’s chicken drumstick, beef jerky, and to finish off, a glass of Capel Vale wine. Better than cereal and a boiled egg!
Approaching the LG Celebrity Theatre
Sence Nectar stall
Luv-a-Duck food stall
Appleton Estate rum
The highlight of our day was a Cheese Matters Masterclass ($30.00), presented by Naomi Crisante. During the 45 minute class, we learned about a rather generous variety of cheeses, from cheddar through to parmesan, and all the way up to gorgeous blue. We analysed and discussed each and every type of cheese, with the aid of a cheese wheel guide. Wines were poured and pair matched to the cheeses. Oh it was bliss! At the conclusion of the class, each person was presented with a cheese book (worth about $25.00), and an opportunity for Naomi to sign them as well. The 45 minute cheese sesh equalled dinner. We wondered how they made any money from the class.
Our Cheese Matters masterclass table
Karina Carvalho from ABC1 News at our table. Oh, and the food.
Definitely looking forward to the Good Food & Wine Show in Perth. I’m hoping the Lindt chocolate appreciation, and Sunbeam cupcake, and coffee classes are held in the near future, as they certainly will add a bit more depth to the show. So here’s hoping.
Good Food & Wine Show
Dates: Friday 2 – Sunday 4 July
Address: Perth Convention Exhibition Centre
Web: www.goodfoodshow.com.au
Celebrity Chefs: Manu Feildel, Matt Moran, Tobie Puttock & Matt Skinner, Gary Mehigan & George Calombaris
Chicken. Healthy, low fat, and packed with protein.
The very poultry meat that featured prominently in our dishes throughout the night. And the dinner venue? Tenkadori. A Japanese restaurant in Subiaco specialising in the popular gourmet dish, yakitori. Not just any yakitori. Tasty and healthy yakitori.
Referred to as Yokohama-Tenkadori in Japan, Tenkadori in Subiaco is the first of its kind to open on Australian shores. I came across this place by accident one day during lunch time when I went to make a claim at Medicare just across the road. Isn’t it always the way? 
The restaurant is tiny, seating a maximum of 20 people. There were a few empty tables when we arrived, but they soon filled up by 8 o’ clock. Inside, the beer fridge holds a permanent place next to the front counter and kitchen, holding varieties such as the Kirin Ichiban Shibori, Yebisu, Asahi Super Dry, as well as sake, shōchū, and plum wine. Our friend “Miss Alcoholic” realised her dreams had come true – Hinomoto on the rocks and plum wine was her poison for the night.
Tenkadori
Inside Tenkadori
The kitchen and front counter
The kitchen
We were the only non-Japanese people in the restaurant, evidenced by the fact that Japanese was being spoken at every other table. Throughout the night as people left, some would say “Gochisou sama deshita“, bow their heads and leave. I had just got back from Japan some two months ago, but I felt like I was instantly transported there again.
A Japanese restaurant. Japanese chefs, owners, and staff. And Japanese patrons. Good signs suggesting that our dinner tonight would be a guaranteed authentic experience. But I secretly knew. The previous week I tried a $11.00 yakitori lunch box (consisting of rice, salad, and three yakitori sticks). It was the cheapest and best tasting lunch I have had in a long long time. The smokiness, juiciness and tenderness of the chicken, and the wonderful smell of tare sauce contributed to what lovers of food might call a foodie orgasm.
Yakitori Lunch Box
We ordered the Chef’s Special ($40.00 each) for the night, which is a set menu for a minimum number of at least 2 guests. The menu read as follows.
ENTREE
YAKITORI (Yakitori, Tsukune and Teba)
SALADS
Chef’s Special Dishes
Rice Dishes
Japanese was written inline on the actual menu. We didn’t know what was expected to come, but hell, our stomachs were churning like a Rick Hart seconds tumble dryer – we were starving. Hunger is a prescriptive sign that signals one not to procrastinate and just order.
For drinks, we ordered a Yebisu ($7.00), two glasses of plum wine ($6.00), a glass of Hinomoto ($9.00), an Iichiko ($7.00), and a green tea ($4.00, free refills). After all, it was Friday night.
Chopsticks, napkin, and plate. What more do you need?
Pot and cup of green tea
We weren’t quite expecting our entrees to arrive at the table so wonderfully presented – simplistic beauty this was. Each plate consisted of a small cup of plum wine, a stack of renkon chips (crispy lotus root slices), teriyaki chicken with seasoning, kim chee fish, and edamame.
Clockwise: Entree of plum wine, renkon chips, teriyaki chicken with seasoning, kim chee fish, and edamame
I began with a sip of the smooth and sweet Choya brand umeshu.
Plum wine
The sweet potatoey renkon chips didn’t have the overall crunch that we were expecting. But that did not stop us from eating every single one of them.
Renkon chips (crispy lotus root slices)
Served cold, the teriyaki chicken gave some musty notes, and was sweet and spicy.
Teriyaki chicken with teriyaki pepper seasoning
The kim chee fish was slightly sweet and hot, with the napa cabbage giving a slight crunch, and the fish smooth as silk.
Kim chee fish
Our edamame were nicely boiled, with the soybeans maintaining enough firmness throughout each bite. Mmmm, sweet healthy nuttiness.
Edamame (boiled green soybeans)
And then it happened. The chickens were let loose.
The first yakitori plate of chicken thighs and minced chicken skewers were, as expected, marvellous. These were grilled over coals in the kitchen, resulting in a browned, caramelised, and well-basted outside, with a delicately sweet, tender, and juicy meat inside.
Yakitori (chicken thigh) and Tsukune (minced chicken balls) skewers
Tsukune
Yakitori
The teba or chicken wings were the second part to the yakitori menu item. “They look like turkey wings!” one remarked, as they were indeed massive. Were these Mt. Barker chicken wings? Those lucky chickens were fed well weren’t they? The wings were cooked nicely and seasoned with a touch of salt and sesame seeds. The outer skin was crackly if not dry, however, the meat inside was moist and milky. Rubbing the meat on the plate of salt and sesame seeds was required in order to enhance the meat flavour and give it some nuttiness.
Plate of Teba (chicken wings)
Teba
Our next dish was a salad of rocket and onion topped with teriyaki chicken. A thin basted layer of tare ensured the chicken was light and glossy in appearance. The slices of chicken were mellow and delectable, in balance with the peppery rocket and sweet onions.
Teriyaki chicken salad
Free range teriyaki chicken slices
Tatsuta Garlic (Japanese style deep-fried chicken)
The first of the chef’s special dishes was a Tatsuta garlic – a type of deep fried chicken marinated in soy sauce, ginger, and garlic, and then sprinkled with potato starch. We all agreed that this was the best dish ever. Scrumptious, mouthwatering chicken delights gave our mouths a ‘bang, bang, bang!‘ So large were the ‘bangs‘ that my friend nearly wet his pants.
Stack of Tatsuta Garlic on a bed of greens
A piece of tatsuta garlic
Tatsuta garlic with chilli
The second chef’s special was a plate of Ika Ichiya-boshi - grilled overnight dried squid, which was bland and savourless. Dipping the squid in mayonnaise and chilli sauce provided a much needed flavour.
Ika Ichiya-boshi (overnight-dried squid)
Ika Ichiya-boshi
Seasoned squid
Ika Ichiya-boshi dipped in mayonnaise
The final chef’s special was a large plate of chicken katsu and squid rings. As the dish was brought out, the waitress advised us that this was the last of the main dishes. We all breathed a huge sigh of relief. We loved the food so much but we were so full! At this stage I loosened a notch on my belt. The thickly crumbed squid rings were nice but nothing too special. The chicken katsu on the other hand was very tasty – stacked pieces of deep fried chicken covered in a light, rich, if not peppery and tangy sauce that were a pleasure to eat.
Squid Rings and Chicken Katsu
Chicken Katsu
An accompaniment of greens
Squid rings
Our rice dish comprised of four deep fried tofu sushi pieces accompanied with tsukemono (pickled vegetables). The deep fried tofu was soft and sweet, providing a nice balance to the vinegary sushi rice inside, which was firm and textured. The accompaniment of pickled vegetables went well with the sushi.
Deep fried tofu sushi and tsukemono (pickled vegetables)
Deep fried tofu sushi
At this point we thought we had succeeded. Wrong. There was one more item – the miso soup. According to our friend “Mr Alcoholic“, he slurred in a somewhat poor form of English identifying that “the miso soup doesn’t taste like that cheap packet stuff in other Japanese restaurants“. And yes, he was right. The soup was sweet, and the onions translucent and soft. Very nice indeed.
Miso soup
Sweet onions
We had succeeded in getting through the Chef’s Special menu. It was a feat that deserved much praise. OK, maybe not. Something told me that we weren’t quite done yet. “Miss Alcoholic” said that “there was still room for ice cream! Yum!“ OK yes, we needed ice cream. There would always be room for dessert! So we ordered three ice creams – green tea ($6.00), black sesame ($6.00), and red bean ($6.00), each what we assumed to be home made.
Green tea, black sesame, and red bean ice cream
The red bean ice cream was my favourite – slightly sweet and floury, and somewhat paste-like.
Red bean ice cream
The green tea ice cream had a mild green tea taste and was satisfying. It would have been good with a splash of red bean azuki sauce.
Green tea ice cream
Lastly, the black sesame ice cream was brilliant – nutty, toasty, and slightly textured. Great stuff.
Black sesame ice cream
The master chef
Tenkadori is a wonderful place. It is a down-to-earth establishment that adds a unique element to a city somewhat lacking in specialised Japanese food. And with that, it does the yakitori well. What is seen as common in Japan as an after hours meeting place for workers, Perth gets a piece of it, right on the door step of the western suburbs, a region which may now be regarded as the hub of Japanese dining.
Tenkadori
Address: 5/502 Hay Street, Subiaco 6008
Tel: +61 8 9382 2291
Web: www.tenkadori.com.au
Opening Hours:
Monday – Saturday (11:00am – late)
